DRS CLASS 20s
I've been feeling overwhelmed by diesel detailing projects this week and am considering taking a 'steam break' for the next few days, especially as my Scot/Patriot and Jones Goods locos have stalled somewhat. A pair of DRS '20s' and a Lima/ViTrains '47' have taken up much of the last four days... and they're still not finished!
The DRS conversions are about as comprehensive a job as you can get - save for changing a loco to a different class - and I've been aiming to make the models and the attendant magazine feature, as thorough as possible. Helped by the use of some excellent detailing parts from Messrs Shawplan and Peter Harvey, there is still the need to scratch-build a number of components such as speedo, windscreen washer jets and MU connections.
George, I'm interested to see the result of the Vi Trains/Lima combination. I've always liked the Lima body moulding - with a few issues sorted out I still think it can hold its own.
ReplyDeleteI was surprised you didn't modify the buffer beam; it follows the curve of the front panel on Lima's model but should be straight and flat. I've done this on my blog previously. It also gives a thicker bufferbeam which can be useful for securing buffer beam details.
Cheers
James
Thanks for the comment, James. Yes, the Lima moulding for the 47 was certainly one of their best and it still stands up against anything available today - with a little detailing work, of course!
ReplyDeleteI take your point about the bufferbeam as it is one area (and an important one) where the Lima shell loses marks, so to speak. The loco on your blog does look much better for the mods you mention and I'm tempted to try it for myself. I'm looking to revisit a few more of my Lima 47s now that the ViTrains chassis is available; I just wish they were a bit cheaper, though!
Thanks again,
George
Yes, the cost is a little prohibitive - maybe they'll be discounted at some point?!
ReplyDeleteMy comment about the buffer beam wasn't meant as a criticism! It's just a rather easy to add modification which costs very little! COmbined with Shawplan's class 56 buffer backing plates (which are complete with steps) the end result is rather pleasing. One of the main advantages from my point of view is that adding the 'goalpost' for Spratt and Winkle couplings is much easier in a thicker, stronger bufferbeam.
James
Hi George/James
ReplyDeleteWouldn't it be easier to detail up a bachmann or a Vi Trains engine? The Lima one seems pretty basic to me.
Hi Brandon,
ReplyDeleteTHanks for the comment. Yes, the Lima shell is a bit basic compared to the newer models, but it captures the look of the real things quite well (to my eyes, at least!).
See what you think when I post the finished pics, in a few weeks, to see how it stands up against a Bachmann or ViTrains '47'.
Personally, I just enjoy the detailng work and gain much more pleasure from running a loco that I've done a good bit of work on, rather than just bought and weathered.
I'm pretty sentimental, too! I'd never part with most of my Lima and Hornby locos, for various reasons, and its nice to keep them operational without standing out too much from contemporary products.
Cheers,
George
George, I'm doing a DRS class 20 conversion.
ReplyDeleteThe Bachmann base model has oval buffers which need to be changed.
Could you please tell me which buffer set you have fitted to yours
Thanks
Matt
Hi Matt,
ReplyDeleteI've used packs of A1 Models Split Shank Oleo buffers. They're turned from brass and are high quality. I got mine from MG Sharp in Sheffield (see www.mgsharp.com).
They need some square backplates, however. These are available in the Shawplan range, from www.howesmodels.co.uk.
Good luck with your conversion!
George
Hi George, how did you fit the ploughs, as the twenty doesn't have any gaps behind the buffer beam?
ReplyDeleteThe PH Designs snowploughs come with a variety of mounting brackets designed for specific loco classes, such as Class 20, 31, 37 etc. They simply fold up and secure to the back of the bufferbeam/underside of the running plate. Easy peasy! As long as the blades are angled correctly, the bogie can turn freely, although I think I did cut a few mm off the NEM pocket to make sure - not a problem for me as I use scale couplings.
DeleteHi George, i was thinking of buy these buffers for my twenty. what size do i need? 18" or 22". also what size would i need for a class 25,26,27? tank you for your help!
DeleteWill.
Hi Will,
DeleteYou'll need 22in diameter buffers for all those loco classes. 18in are suitable for Class 44/45/46 Peaks.
Cheers,
GD.
Thanks George.
Delete